Paradise under the Sea

Bunaken! For divers, the name Bunaken has a magical ring to it. The diversity of marine life in this national park located in the Indonesian archipelago is simply breathtaking.

Bunaken National Park in northern Indonesia is part of the North Sulawesi region. The National Park covers the northern tip of the larger island of Sulawesi, a number of smaller islands, and a vast expanse of water.

North Sulawesi as a whole is a marvelous haven for diving. It has been estimated that there are over 150 prime diving sites in the region. The area offers ideal conditions for diving. The water is warm and crystal clear - with visibility up to 40 meters. The underwater profiles range from coral reefs with dramatic drop offs to wide-open sand flats. In addition, there are some fast-flowing underwater currents.

Even though Sulawesi is one of the more remote areas of Indonesia, it is easily accessible. Manado is served by an international airport with direct international flights from Singapore and the Philippines. From within Indonesia, Manado has good connections from all major cities. It is no wonder that over the years North Sulawesi has become one of the most popular diving destinations in Asia.

Fauna from two continents

The nature of North Sulawesi is unique. One third of the world's coral reefs are found in the Pacific Ocean, in the coastal waters of Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore, and underwater life is most abundant within the triangle formed by the islands of northern Philippines, Sumatra and Papua New Guinea. This is exactly where North Sulawesi, a candidate for designation as a UNESCO World Heritage List as the world's richest water body, is located.

Over 1,000 coral reef-associated fish species have been identified in North Sulawesi. This is more than anywhere else in the world. The reefs also play host to sea turtles sometimes reaching over two meters (six-and-a-half feet) in length, and seven different species of giant clam. Marine mammals are represented by dugongs (sea cows), dolphins and whales. Some of the strangest creatures inhabiting the ocean depths of North Sulawesi include the nautilus and the coelacanth, which are extinct everywhere else.

Eco-tourism keeps the reefs alive

The unique nature of North Sulawesi has been acknowledged. In 1991, the island of Bunaken, four other small coral-reef fringed islands and the surrounding bodies of water in the North Sulawesi region were formed into Bunaken National Marine Park. In 1998, foreign residents living in the area and local tourism entrepreneurs established an organization (North Sulawesi Watersport Association, NSWA) to support the conservation activities. In 2000, the National Park Management Advisory Board was formed.

The Board has since managed to stop dynamite and cyanide fishing - which destroys coral reefs - the capture of endangered species, such as sea turtles and dugongs, the mining of coral, as well as the cutting of mangrove trees. The living coral cover has started to grow again.

These results have been achieved in part by tightening controls, but the jobs created by the tourism industry have also been of great importance. Poor people have no longer needed to resort to destructive fishing to survive. In this way, tourism, for its part, keeps the reefs alive.

Tourism businesses in the area are committed to the highest ecological standards. Accommodation units are small, and park rules prohibit large buildings in the area. Disturbing the animals and touching coral are strictly prohibited.

The Park is divided into different zones based on activities. In addition to core zones where no activities at all are allowed, there are zones for tourism and the local population.

Dreaming of a dive resort

Six years ago, the Finnish couple Mia Huopalainen and Jaakko Aalto traveled around Asia and the Caribbean. They were looking for a place where they could set up their own diving resort. However, they did not find a satisfactory place until they discovered Bunaken.

A young tourism entrepreneur named Lorenzo, born and bred on the island, noticed that the couple had fallen in love with the island, and suggested that they establish a diving resort. Lorenzo did not have any diving activities of his own. He estimated that the Finns would make great partners.

The island is safe, the people are friendly, and the Manado international airport is just a hour's ride away. There were already some dive operators in the area, but there seemed to be room. And so, Mia and Jaakko decided to set up a diving resort, which they named Living Colours, in recognition of the unique character of the area.

It took an entire year to start a company in the bureaucratic jungle of licenses and kickbacks that is Indonesia. Finally, everything was in order, and Living Colours was ready to open its doors.

Today, Living Colours employs some thirty people. With the exception of Mia and Jaakko, all the employees are local.

The dive courses offered by Living Colours begin with introductory courses and continue up to the advanced divemaster level.

Since Bunaken is a true paradise for lovers of underwater photography, Living Colours offers a wide range services for photographers. There are fully equipped camera care facilities, and a computer equipped with a memory card reader, Photoshop software, and an Internet connection that allows you to share your pictures with your friends right after the dive.

Partnership with Suunto

Living Colours diving resort uses Suunto diving equipment. The rental equipment includes Suunto pressure and depth gauges, Suunto Equilite 1000 BCDs, and Mares fins. The dive resort also sells Suunto dive computers.

Links and contact information
www.livingcolours.fi
www.livingcoloursdiving.com
www.divenorthsulawesi.com

Text by Markku Rimpiläinen
Images by Ralf Åström

(Click the images within the text to view them larger)