In the arms of the Paistunturi

Up in the northernmost part of Lapland we find the land of soft lines and features - the Paistunturi wilderness area. This rugged wilderness has twice stopped our trip from Karigasniemi to Utsjoki. What would happen this time?

At the turn of the year the sun never rises and the arctic hills are bathed in pastel colours. Snow that fell during cold weather is soft and powdery and there is no firm ground. Skiers wade through thick snow, while vegetation scratches the bottom of the skis. It feels like the snow is dragging you down and doesn't want to let you go deeper into the heart of the wilderness.

The cold is intense, at -30° C your body stiffens up even during the shortest breaks and you need to keep moving to stay warm. Despite these freezing cold temperatures, in the river where the currents flow the water hasn't frozen.

Because of the weight of the snow water has risen on top of the ice, which will freeze into the skis, making them as heavy as lead. My husband and I drag ourselves forward at one kilometre per hour through a grove of silver birch trees which always remind me of sausage-cooking sticks. Everything is going fine, but then the dog we brought with us develops severe frostbite after falling into freezing water. We have to turn back.

After a few weeks rest we are again in the starting pit, ready to challenge the Paistunturi. This time the wind has blown the snow into a thick crust of snow. The strong wind pushes against us and we advance in a deeply stooped position. The weather is so bad that you can barely tell that you're moving forward. When we stop, the dogs quickly curl up next to the dog sleigh. In winds this bad we don't want to put up a tent in the open arctic hills, so we need to turn back once again. The decision proved to be the right one as only a few kilometers away the wind was blowing rocks into the air.

The Paistunturi area turned into an obsession. The surest way of managing to ski through the mountains would be to go in the spring, when the winter gusts and freezing temperatures have eased up. The mild weather will have made a supporting crust of snow, and the sun caresses the traveller with its warmth, but I was still determined to take on the arctic challenge.

At the end of February we are at the point where the first trip ended. Last time this distance took 3 days to cross. This time we travelled the 16 kilometres in only 2,5 hours. The conditions and weather were good.

The -16 degree cold is made even worse by the wind blowing at 6m/sec and the combination of these two factors makes the air feel like -25°C on the skin. When the wind is thick with light snow, exposed skin begins to freeze. Soon you can see the early stages of frostbite appearing on my cheekbone- a white blotch. Fortunately my husband notices this in time, and I pull my balaclava and hood on tighter to protect my face. Quick first-aid treatment will heal the wound in a couple of days.

We spend our first night in a shelter cabin. We can tell that there have been visitors other than mountain hikers in this cabin as there are mole droppings everywhere. In Finnish wilderness areas these cabins can be found dotted around the countryside and are open for all to use. Mountain hikers can find welcome shelter in these cabins. They may seem rustic, but the iron stove will quickly make the cabin warm, and a candle makes it feel homely.

During the next day we walk in the misty and dense air, it feels like we've fallen into a milk churn. We can't see the magnificent mountains around us, only some bendy arctic birches.

Around the tent we build a robust wall to protect us from the wind, since the strong winds don't seem to be settling. We dig holes in the snow for the dogs. In the middle of the night the smallest one of the furry creatures is missing the warmth of the tent, so I gladly accept him at my side to warm me. The temperature has dropped to -30 degrees.

In the morning we can see the scenery a bit better so we can check our location. We rise up along a beautiful ravine to the highlands, and keep going all the way to the area's highest mountain; the top of Guivi at 640 metres. We are in the heart of the crested mountains and the sun is shining.

When we have passed the finest scenery, the clouds close like curtains and we find ourselves in an even more dense whiteness than before. Only the compass can tell us the direction we are heading. Everything is pure white and at times it feels like you're floating.

Soon we arrive at an arctic birch grove and into deep snow that you sink into immediately. Progress is difficult.

Before we get to our destination and finish our six days of hard work we are lucky enough to witness one of nature's greatest performances. Dark clouds rip apart, revealing thousands of strands of sunlight. The untouched snow glitters like a carpet of diamonds. A herd of reindeer graze around the brow of the mountain. There is nothing but silence and untouched beauty around us. We feel lucky.

In the crusted snow the visitor can wander around. With the sun's brightness you feel like you're in paradise, where the mountains are gently caressing you. A hiker battered by the winds, bitten by the cold in the untrodden snow doesn't know anything better than that.

Embraced by the wilderness man feels his insignificance. There he walks at nature's mercy, caressed by the sun, battered by the winds or bitten by the cold. After an exhausting trek hard work is rewarded by soothing, pastel coloured scenery. The vastness of the landscape keeps the hiker humble.

The Paistunturi wilderness area is located in the northernmost part of Lapland on the section of land between Utsjoki and Karigasniemi.

Text and images by Aksana Kurola