Ueli Steck Reaches Summit of Makalu

Swiss Alpinist Ueli Steck reached the summit of the world?s fifth highest mountain, Makalu in Nepal on September 24, 2009 after a difficult and frustrating few weeks of climbing.

Makalu is a technically demanding peak with steep pitches, knife-edged ridges and a tricky rock and ice climbing final section to the summit.

Steck had originally planned to make an ascent solo and without fixed lines on the West Pillar instead of via the conventional North Face and Northeast Ridge. However during an attempt at the beginning of September, large amounts of fresh snow made completing the task extremely dangerous.

At 7100m, with over 1300m to the top of the 8463m high peak, Steck encountered loose snow that kept sliding as soon as he tried to make forward progress.

"The avalanche situation was for sure at the limit," Steck said. "As soon as it got steeper, I slid back into a loose mass of snow. Every time my heart stood still. Sometimes I slid one metre, sometimes two. Every single muscle in my body was stressed."

Realising continuing would be impossible, Steck returned to base camp tired and demoralised. After a few days reflection he was joined by photographer Robert Bösch and decided to climb the mountain via the standard northern route.

Leaving camp 3, which was situated at 7350m, at 3am on September 24, Steck reached the summit at 3pm despite significant amounts of snow covering the way.

Steck immediately returned to camp 3 and the next day was happily resting at base camp.

Read more about Ueli Steck here.

Visit also www.uelisteck.ch for more information.